Sommeliers Head Backstage for 2026 Vintage Action
Sommeliers from leading Sydney restaurants and hospitality groups descended on the Hunter Valley for a hands-on, immersive two-day “Backstage” vintage experience. Kicking off with a masterclass hosted by industry legends Andrew Thomas, Andrew Spinaze and Iain Riggs, flagship Semillon vineyards including Thomas Braemore Vineyard, Mount Pleasant Lovedale Vineyard, Tyrrell's Vat 1 Vineyard, Brokenwood ILR Vineyard and Audrey WilkinsonRidge Vineyard were showcased. The pure, fresh vibrancy of the 2025 wines were contrasted with a retrospective look at the golden 2006 vintage. “These wines are classics for the ages that will still be revered in 10–20 years,” said Thomas.
According to Christian Blair, Group Sommelier for the Artemus Group, the experience was a highlight. “Tasting these iconic wines, side-by-side was invaluable, revealing distinct house styles and their evolution over 20 years. I may have listed one of these aged wines previously, but with a deeper understanding, I could easily justify listing three and tailoring them to customer preferences.”
A casual dinner at Thomas Wines showcased an impressive diversity of varieties and styles from 18 emerging Hunter winemakers—some from established houses, others with their own labels. Blair noted, “Dinner in the winery, with everyone sharing their wines and stories, felt like a true backstage moment. I hadn’t realised the depth of young talent in the Valley. There’s a strong sense of community and even young winemakers from heritage wineries bring a fresh perspective.”
Day two saw sommeliers get their hands dirty—literally. Assigned different wineries, they participated in everything from picking grapes and vineyard visits to foot stomping, punch-downs, racking, analysing samples, tasting ferments, blending, and barrel and tank tastings. Blair reflected, “The immersive vintage experience was new to me and understanding different techniques was incredibly insightful. Visiting a rehabilitated 100-year-old Semillon vineyard and seeing regenerative viticulture in action was a standout.”
Regrouping at Brokenwood Wines for a behind-the-scenes tour hosted by Senior Winemaker Stuart Hordern, the group tasted some stunning ferments, including the oldest semillon vine in the world planted in 1899. A rustic lunch with the vintage crew, paired with wines like ILR Semillon, Graveyard and 1899 Semillon, added to the experience.
The final “Wines from the Vault” dinner at Spicers Guesthouse featured exceptional back vintages including a 1996 Maurice O’Shea, plus a blind tasting options game, revealing a 1985 Tyrrell’s Pinot that stunned the room.
Blair concluded, “There were revelations across the two days. It was a valuable experience and a timely reminder of what makes the Hunter Valley truly great.”
Cathy Gadd has been freelance wine writer for consumer and trade publications for over a decade. She can be contacted on