Whats is Semillon?
Semillon is a white grape variety that originated in France and is primarily grown in Bordeaux, where it plays a key role in both dry and sweet wines. However, it has found a second home in Australia, particularly in the Hunter Valley, where it has become the region’s flagship white wine. Unlike many other white wines, Semillon has an incredible aging potential, developing more complexity and richness over time.
As with some many European grapes, Semillon arrived in Australia in 1831 as part of James Busby’s collection and found its first Australian home in the warm, humid Hunter Valley. Early Hunter Valley Semillons were often misleadingly labelled Hunter River Riesling, Hock, White Burgundy or even Chablis, none of which helped promote Semillon on its own merits as a standalone variety. From its earliest days in Australia, however, it proved a popular vine with winemakers. Its vigour, ease of propagation, high yields and resistance to disease made Semillon an easy vine to like.
Hunter Valley Semillon is often made without oak, relying instead on the quality of the fruit and the influence of bottle aging to develop its signature character. Young Semillon is bright and fresh, while aged Semillon takes on deep golden hues with toasty, honeyed, and nutty characteristics. The transformation is so remarkable that legendary wine writer Jancis Robinson MW has noted “Hunter Valley Semillon is Australia’s unique gift to the wine world.”
What does Semillon taste like?
The warm, humid climate of the Hunter Valley technically shouldn’t be capable of producing Semillon with any great character. Yet Hunter Semillon is one of the wine world’s great wonders, able to morph over time from a zesty, crisp youngster into a deep golden, nutty, honey and straw-scented old-timer. Pristine winemaking is key to Hunter Semillon. Grapes are picked at a low baume (usually around 10–11% alcohol), gently handled in the winery, crushed with minimal skin and seed extract; the juice is fermented at cold temperatures in stainless steel and transferred to bottle as soon as fermentation stops.
When first bottled, Hunter Valley Semillon is almost water-white in appearance with aromas of citrus, grass, straw, lanolin, and subtle green herbs. It’s crisp and delicate with a chalky minerality. Patience pays great dividends, however, and the finest examples with high acidity and low alcohol transform after as little as five years’ in bottle, revealing honeyed, toasty, grilled nut characters – almost as if the wine has spent time in oak (even though it hasn’t). It’s these wines that make Hunter Valley Semillon one of the wine world’s great collectable wonders. Prices of these age-worthy Semillons are well within reach of most wine lovers and, under the right conditions, the transformation that occurs over time is substantial. The key point of difference in aged Hunter Valley Semillon is that the best examples will retain an identifiable stamp of primary fruit and a nucleus of fine acidity even after decades in the cellar.
The taste of Semillon evolves dramatically over time, making it one of the most exciting wines to explore. When young, Hunter Valley Semillon is known for its:
Crisp acidity
Fresh citrus flavours (lime, lemon, grapefruit)
Subtle green apple and lemongrass notes
Light body with a clean, refreshing finish
As the wine ages, it undergoes an extraordinary transformation. Aged Semillon is renowned for developing:
Rich honey and toasted brioche aromas
Nutty and buttered toast characteristics
Beeswax and marmalade flavours
A fuller, more rounded mouthfeel
What is different about Hunter Valley Semillon?
The Hunter Valley’s distinct climate and terroir play a crucial role in shaping the style of Semillon produced here. Some key factors that make it so special include:
Warm Days, Cool Nights: The warm, sunny days allow the grapes to ripen, while cool evenings help preserve the wine’s natural acidity, giving it a crisp and refreshing profile.
Early Harvesting: Hunter Valley winemakers often pick Semillon early, at lower sugar levels, to retain its bright acidity and fresh citrus character.
Minimal Winemaking Intervention: Most Hunter Semillon is made without oak, allowing the purity of the fruit to shine. Many winemakers use stainless steel fermentation to emphasise its bright and clean flavours.
Extraordinary Aging Potential: Unlike most white wines, Hunter Valley Semillon is built to last, often improving for decades.
Soil Types and Influence on Hunter Valley Semillon
Hunter Valley Semillon thrives in different soil types, which impact the wine’s style:
Sandy Alluvial Soils (Lower Hunter)
Found near the Hunter River, these free-draining soils contribute to lighter, more delicate Semillons with crisp acidity and vibrant citrus notes. Wines from these soils tend to be lean and fresh when young and develop more finesse as they age.
Volcanic Red Clay (Upper Hunter & some pockets of the Valley)
These richer soils offer more structure and body to Semillon. Wines from clay soils may have a slightly fuller texture and more pronounced fruit flavors in youth, while still aging gracefully into the classic toasty, honeyed style.
Loamy and Silty Soils
Often found in transitional areas between sand and clay, these soils contribute to well-balanced Semillon with both acidity and depth. Wines from these sites often develop into some of the most complex aged Semillons.
Sources: Wine Australia, Scarborough Wine Co
